In this first iteration of what will be an ongoing series revisiting the basics of skateboard travel and accommodations (like staying on a friend’s couch), we found ourselves in Maité Steenhoudt’s living room in Marseille one weekend in late October, accompanied by Leon Charo-Tite. Without much of a plan, we hopped on a plane hoping to gather some footage, shoot photos, and soak up some vitamin D. Like a few other endeavors planned for this issue, the weather didn’t exactly cooperate, and we ended up spending most of our time in Maité’s living room, drawing and drinking. Mate by Maité in the mornings and beers at night. Luckily for us, Maité’s shared flat is full of surprises. Wherever your eye wandered you could discover something new to look at and wonder about. Among my favorite pieces in the house were the tattooed baby doll’s head and a huge framed painting that Maité and her roommate Khaoula were enhancing with their own creatures and stories. So far, it features horny aliens, a smoking Yoda, crashing planes, and undoubtedly much more by the time this is published. All in all, despite the circumstances, we managed to stay entertained, find spots around the house, and venture just far enough into the city for some sightseeing—and to get our phone stolen. On the last morning, just before heading to the airport (with a clear blue sky, as always seems to be the case when leaving a place), we reflected on the weekend.
Felix: Good morning! Where are we?
Maité: We’re in Marseille, in the stupid doggy house!
F: Thanks for letting Leon and me crash here!
Leon: The beds are pretty comfy, but these mosquitoes—man! At one point, I was like, “Whatever, just have a sip.”
M: This house has been couch-surfed nonstop since we moved in. Maybe one week has gone by without anyone staying here. At one point, all my Belgian homies were visiting back-to-back. I always tell everyone they’re welcome. But with everyone living here, we just have too many international friends. Most of our guests are super respectful, and so many friends around the world have helped me with places to stay. It’s a give-and-take thing.
F: How did you end up living in Marseille?
M: I’ve been coming here since I was 17. Chloé [Bernard] and Sam Partaix invited me to some events back in the day. For the past three years, I’ve been visiting every year, usually staying in squats with friends. This is the first time we’re actually paying for a place to live. My plan was to stay here for a year and then move on. Marseille has always been good to me. It’s the first place I’ve lived so close to the sea and where it’s mostly sunny. It’s made me a lot street smarter — reading people and situations. Marseille is a good place to be, but it’s also a place to be careful.
F: I learned that the hard way when my phone got stolen at “La Plaine,” even though that was literally the first thing you warned me about. Lesson learned.
M: Marseille isn’t the sketchiest place, but you really have to watch your stuff, especially backpacks and things in your pockets. The thieves here are masters. Even some of my street-smart friends, who’ve never had anything stolen anywhere else, got pickpocketed in Marseille. It happened to me too – my phone and wallet, right out of my pocket. But that’s Marseille: it takes, it gives.
L: I think Marseille is pretty cool. It doesn’t seem too hectic, but then you turn two or three corners, and it feels like you’re in Morocco. I like the hills here. Berlin is so flat. Here, you walk up one hill, cruise down another. I wish we had more time to check out the viewpoints.
M: Next time, we’ll explore some nature. Three days isn’t enough for the full experience.
Backsmide Smith Slasher
F: Overall, how was your weekend?
L: It was good! It started strong with a concert.
M: Yeah, we went to a punk concert – my friend’s band was playing.
F: Leon, how is Maité as a host?
L: She’s the best! Scrambled eggs every morning, lots of drawing. I hadn’t drawn in a while.
F: What’s your relationship with drawing?
L: I’ve always painted – since I was a kid, at school, or after skating when my legs were too tired. Just doodling for fun. Sometimes, when you’re home alone, it’s almost like meditation. What about you, Maité?
M: Doesn’t everyone start drawing as a kid? At some point, most people quit, though. I don’t see myself making money from it; it’s just fun. I like having an idea in my head and putting it on paper.
Ollie
F: You recently had some of your artwork featured in an Element collection, how did that come about?
L: The Element capsule collection came about when I was in New York on a homie trip and there was an Element trip in the city right after. Some of those guys were already there and they asked me to dinner. Rey [Gautier], the art director back then, asked me if my drawings were my side hustle. I just always have my ipad and I was drawing stuff for a brainchild of a project that I never really had the money to realize. I thought he was just being nice when he proposed a collection, but he hit me up again a few months later and I sent him some of my graphics. He immediately wanted to use them all. It fits the style and I was happy the stuff doesn’t just rot on my icloud. I still didn’t really believe it until the samples came in five months later. The next moment I was having a release at MBU [Maybachufer Skatepark] giving out clothes. A bunch of people asked me if I turned pro, but I had to tell him it was just “artist-me” getting a collection. I see people I really respect wear the stuff, I would love to do more. It gave me a lot of confidence, just to see that stuff like that is possible!
F: The whole house is filled with art: paintings, doodles, and all sorts of stuff. Even the doll head and dinosaur have been customized. Where does all of it come from?
M: It’s all from friends or people living here. The collages are by Molly, she’s super talented. A lot of the stuff, like the big painting we started drawing on, comes from the streets. Most of the furniture too. Some of it might even be from other squats. There are so many talented people around here, they just party too much.
F: As far as skating goes, we didn’t have much luck with the weather.
L: The first morning, when it was raining, we found this bump-to-bar by a café near the house and waited for it to dry. Skating it was painful – there were two puddles right in the landing. I almost fell into one. My board aged five years at that spot: chipped, soaked, muddy grip tape, wet shoes. But it worked out.
M: I didn’t even realize that was a spot. Even when we were there, I had no idea there was a bump-to-bar next to my house.
Polejam
The next day, we found a tall pole jam near the train station also close to Maité’s house. The first time we tried to skate it, a security guard came over pretty quickly and wouldn’t let us get many attempts. When we went back the next day, he started arguing with us again. This time, though, we brought Khaoula as our dedicated negotiator, which worked like a charm and “Voilà,” we got the make.
We also managed to sneak in a session at Marseille’s Bowl du Prado, famously featured in Tony Hawk’s Pro Skater. Even the bus stop has recently been renamed “Bowl du Prado”, which only underlines its iconic status. When’s the last time you went to a city and the skatepark was mapped out for you on public transport? Chloé Bernard joined us for the session, and Leon found a creative way to exit the park via a pole jam, marking the first skatepark photo in our brand-new magazine’s legacy. Locals claimed it was an NBD, so we’ll let that one slide.
Marseille has way more to offer than we could explore in such a short visit. Riding the bus along the coast gave us a taste of what summer here must be like. Walking around the city gave us a feel for the local skate spots, and there was no shortage of trick ideas as we passed by countless cutty corner-spots. We made sure to enjoy some mussels at a little restaurant near the water before continuing our spot tour further into the city, ending the trip with a stylish backside smith from Maité and a Moroccan dinner.
We’ll surely be back someday to continue the mission, but next time, we’ll keep a better eye on our belongings.
No Comply Polejam
